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Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro)
History | What to see | Tour operators | Where to sleep | Where to eat | Nightlife | Shopping | Transportation | Practical guide | What to see in the surroundings
Situated
in the deep south east of
the country, with its is setting
amongst crescent shaped beaches under high
forest-clad mountains and atmosphere of steady decay, Fort
Dauphin has
an undeniable charm and it is, therefore, no wonder that it has
developed into the
centre of a prosperous tourist industry. The city is dominated by
splendid
mountain chain, the chain of Anosy and the Peak St. Louis, on the north
side of
the city, which offers a unique and unspoiled view of the area. On the
north,
east, and south the bright azure colours of the Indian Ocean take over
the
magnificent view. The town offers the
visitor a
variety of pastimes like strolling through the markets, lazing
on the fine
sandy beaches, enjoying the marvellous cuisine or exploring the
sensational
dry-forests of the surroundings.
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| Historic map of Fort Dauphin drawn by Flacourt in 1650 |
Even before the formal
ratification, in March
1642 an expedition of the French East India Company embarked for
Madagascar,
under the command of Jacques de Pronis. They
initially settled down in the Sainte Luce,
where Pronis, hoping to curry
favour with the Malagasy, married the daughter of a local chief. His
marriage
with a black woman was deplored by his men. The addition of another
hundred
Frenchmen to the fort created food shortages and general discontent. In
addition to this, the insalubrities of the area provoked a lethal fever
to many
men, and the company was forced to move to the drier
“Tholongar” peninsula. The
new settlement was named Fort Dauphin in the honour of the future King
Sun of
France, Louis XIV. The Catholic members of the troupe do not accept,
however,
to be governed by a Protestant. A rebellion broke out. Pronis is taken
prisoner
and then released with the help of a new vessel. In an act of revenge,
he
humiliates the rebels and deport to the Bourbon island. After the
arrival of Etienne
de Flacourt late in 1648, he left to conquer other lands.
Meanwhile,
Pronis returned to Fort Dauphin to
retrain his authority, but the destiny of the colony was already in
danger. A
night of revelry, a drunken man sets fire to a roof: the town is
reduced to a
pile of ashes. But Pronis is stubborn. And, supported by a priest, he
decided
to rebuild the colony. A new fire and a new reconstruction follow.
Exhausted,
he died at the age of thirty six years. Flacourt perish f off Lisbon,
while his
ship, the Holy Virgin, is sunk by the Turks. In Fort Dauphin, the
indigenous
revolt continues. The surviving settlers were finally evacuated in 1674
after a
terrible massacre perpetrated by the local Antanosy people on the white
settlers. Rebels, infuriated by the abuses of the colonists, burst onto
the
midnight mess on Christmas Eve and killed fifty eight of the seventy
mass
attendants. The survivors were evacuated and Fort Dauphin was abandoned
thirty
years after its foundation.
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Colonial architecture
The city still preserves some
vestiges of colonial
architecture. One beautiful example is the big white house of the
Kaleta
family, near the hotel Dauphin, which is surrounded by a garden. Ochre
buildings, colonnades and remnants of a long past time can still be
admired
everywhere.
-
Fortins
Behind the mosque you will find a very old stone
constructions emerging
between newer buildings. These are the remains of forts built in the
seventeenth century.
-
New Mosque
The new mosque, in the Indo-Pakistani borough, overlooking
the Lobanona
beach, reflects the important role played by this community.
-
Anosy Museum
This fort hosts a museum of the Anosy region and the route to India, depicting history and culture of the peoples of the region.
-
Libanona beach
Libanona beach is certainly the most beautiful, secure and
popular of the
city.
-
Fort Flacourt
This fort, named
after the second
governor of Fort Dauphin, dates back to 1643. Unfortunately, the fort
is
undergoing rehabilitation and is closed at the moment.
-
Pic Saint Louis
Climbing
on the 529 m high Pic Saint Louis is extremely recommendable for those
who want
to enjoy a spectacular view of Fort Dauphin
From the top you can see from east to west, Sainte Luce,
Lokaro Islands,
the tip Evatra, Cove Dauphine, the tip Libanona, false Galions Bay,
Cape Ranavalona,
Lake Andriambe ... Access: two trails leading to the summit. The first
from the
factory SIFOR, (bush-taxis can drop) is the shortest way, but obviously
the
steepest (ascent in 1 hr 30 approx.). The second option starts at
Marillac and
borrows on the road crests (2 to 3 hours walk). For security reasons,
it is
better to be accompanied by authorized guides.
-
Saiadi Botanic gardens
The access is on the road to
Sainte-Luce, near
the Nahampoana reserve. The walk through the gardens will take at least
half a
day., All species of Madagascar's superb flora are
represented. Lemurs
live here too, as well as crocodiles and a countless number of birds
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Nahampoana Reserve
Nahampoana Natural Reserve is
situated 7 km to
the north of Fort Dauphin (about 15 minutes by road). It is a small
private
reserve of only 67 ha, but serves as an alternative to the overpriced
Berenty,
when it comes to a close encounter with Sifaka's and other lemurs. This
park
has four species of habituated lemurs, ring-tailed, red-fronted brown
and bamboo
lemurs as well as sifakas, which are the stars of the park. Their
small, white,
fuzzy head, with a black face and snout balances graciously when they
move over
the ground in their famous “dance”. The well-kept
gardens show a good sample of
Madagascar’s dry plants with their three-cornered palms,
spiny Desiderata trees
and stands of bamboo. In the forest there are waterfalls and natural
swimming
pools that offer quiet and secluded picnic sites. One can also make a
short
excursion by pirogue through the mangroves.
You can reach the park by taxi (8 € per person return, when two people are sharing). The entry fee costs 8 €, a guide is included.
BP
159 Fort-Dauphin 614 - Madagascar
Tél/Fax (+ 261) 20 92 212
24 - 20 92 212 34
Web :
http://airfortservices.com
They offer
excursion to every interesting place in the surrounding
area:
Nahampoana Private Reserve (owned by this company), Sainte Luce,
Ankapaky
Cavern,
They also hire a wide
range of vehicles ( cars, jeeps, buses)
Anne et Eric
Marmorat - B.P. 329
614 Fort-Dauphin – Madagascar
Phone: +261 (0)33 12 517 03
Web: http://www.lavasoa.com/
Mail: info@lavasoa.mg
Same owners as Hotel
Lavasoa. They organise trips to less touristic places
in the surroundings and are specialised on kitesurf trips. They also
own an Eco lodge on
Phone: 92 212 66
Mail: safarilakatours@yahoo.fr
Professional operator located next to Hotel Gina
which offers a wide selection of excursions (you will not find some of
them in
other agencies) and adventure trips (mountain bike, trekking,
canoeing)
SHTM
Phone: 92 21 238
Same owner as Hotel Miramar and Dauphin and Berenty Reserve (if you are
planning to visit it this is the only option). They mainly offer
package
holidays to the main attractions around
Mobile: + 261 (0) 32 07 601 22
e-mail: trajectoire@moov.mg
Web: www.trajectoire.it
Motorcars and Quad rental
Fort Dauphin attracts too an increasing number of surfers. The best place is surely the bay of Vivaly Kely. You can require further information at Club Akoba, contact@ankoba.com, web: www.ankoba.com.
Budget | Middle-class | High-end
Age
D’Or
Bazarikely
6 simple but pleasant rooms, some with private facilities. Nice staff
and cheap!
Chez Anita
Phone: 92 213 22
8 rooms and 6 bungalows in the middle of a fantastic and peaceful
garden. Friendly and quiet atmosphere, excellent food and home made tea!
Price between 25,000 Ar and 35,000 Ar, depending on the facilities.
Chez Jacqueline
Ampasimasay
Phone: 92 217 68
8 simple rooms with private facilities. Very friendly atmosphere
(popular with backpackers). Basic meals.
Price for a room 20,000 Ar
Hôtel Mahavoky
Bazaribe
Phone: 033 14 007 45
12 renewed, large and quite comfortable rooms, with hot water and
shared bathroom. Good and inexpensive food.
Price for a room from 17,000 Ar
Mahavoky Annexe
Phone: 92 213 97
9 rooms in the main street with hot water and private bathroom, some
with sea views. The food is cheap and tasty.
Price for a room between 25000 Ar and 27000 Ar
Sahil
Hôtel
Bazarikely
Phone: 92 216 04
7 basic but comfortable rooms with hot water, private facilities and
sea views. Restaurant serves good food but no alcohol! Good value.
Price for a room from 27,000 Ar
Hôtel
Nepenthes
Ampasikabo
Phone: + (261) 20 92 211 43
Mail: lenepenthes@yahoo.fr
13 pleasant and comfortable bungalows with hot water and private
bathroom in a nice setting. Restaurant, conference room and transfers
arranged. Very good price-quality relationship.
Price for a double room 22 € and for a triple 27
€, full board 7 €
Hôtel
Panorama
Phone: 92 216 56
4 pleasant and comfortable bungalows with private facilities and hot
water right on the beach with great views of the bay. Better to book in
advance.
Price for two people from 32,000 Ar
Le Tournesol
Phone: + (261) 20 92 216 71 / 033 12 513 16
8 nice rooms centrally located with TV, hot water, private bathroom and
fan. There is a beautiful garden and the views are incredible! The food
is good and reasonable priced. Many excursions arranged. Good value.
Price for two people 20 €
Hotel Gina Village
Phone: + (261) 20 92 918 09 / 033 07 987 66
Mail: ginavillage@yahoo.fr
10 comfortable and charming bungalows recently rebuilt and 3 smaller
and cheaper rooms,
surrounded by a beautiful garden. Friendly staff and quiet location.
Several excursions in the area organised.
Price for two people about 23 €, depending on the season
and the facilities.
Soavy
Hôtel
Ampasikabo
Phone: 92 213 59 / 032 40 657 16
15 rooms and 6 bungalows, all welcoming, spacious and very comfortable
set on a beautiful location with a big garden. Very good and
inexpensive restaurant.
Price for two people between 33,000 Ar and 66,000 Ar, depending on the
facilities.
Village Petit
Bonheur
Libanona BP 210
Phone: + 261 20 92 212 60
Web: http://www.hotelfortdauphin.com
Mail: petitbonheurfd@hotmail.fr
Clean and comfortable bungalows, rooms and appartments with hot water,
AC, TV, mini-bar and private terrace in a beautiful location and
not far from the beach. Excellent and inexpensive meals. They organise
different trips and activities. Good value.
Bungalows for 43,000 Ar, rooms 62,000 Ar and appartment for 90,000 Ar
Azura
Hôtel & Spa
BP 284 - Fort-Dauphin
Tel : (261 20) 92 211 17 /
(261 20) 92
211 36 / (261 20) 92 211 23
Fax : (261 20) 92 211 38
E-mail :
azura.hotel@moov.mg
Web : www.hotel-azura.com
This luxurious new hotel and spa complex offers
17 high standard rooms and 2 suites, all of them with plasma TV, Ac,
mini bar,
wifi, etc. They offer and arrange all kind of activities in the area.
There is
a cocktail bar ( Le Blue Lagoon) and a restaurant
called Piment Verd, where guests can taste
exquisite fish, seafood and meat.
A double room costs 52 € and a suite 83 €, day menu
for 10 €
Bungalows Lavasoa
B.P. 329 614 Fort-Dauphin
Phone:+261 (0)33 12 517 03
Web: www.lavasoa.com
Mail: info@lavasoa.mg
5 charming and very nicely
furnished
bungalows with private terrace on a fantastic beach. The location is
stunning and the views are great. Excellent service and friendly staff.
Many excursions offered. There is a bar which serves only breakfast.
Booking is compulsory.
Double room for 42 €, double bungalow 48 €, studio
with
kitchen 58 € and familiar bungalow for 5 people 73
€
Croix Du Sud
Phone: 92 211 56
Web: www.madagascar-resorts.com
Mail: croixsud@madagascar-resorts.com
33 new and luxurious rooms
with
satellite TV, AC, safe, fridge, telephone, Internet connection.
Beautiful setting next to Le Dauphin (same owner) and
professional service. All range of excursions
organised.
Double room from 57 to 60 €, triple from 64 to 70 €
and familiar 80 € (breakfast
included)
Kaleta Hotel
Phone: + 261 20 92 212 87
Mail: kaletaresa@moov.mg kaletadir@moov.mg
Web: www.kaletahotel-fortdauphin.com
This luxurious hotel belonging to the Colbert Hotels was opened in 2008
and has 30 high standard rooms and 10 luxury suites with all comforts
and great views over the sea for clients looking for comfort and
service. The hotel has a spa, a pool, a lounge bar and a restaurant
serving great meals.
Rooms from 67 €, suites between 115 € and 140
€
Le Dauphin
Phone: 92 217 58
Web: www.madagascar-resorts.com
Mail: ledauphin@madagascar-resorts.com
25 high standard rooms and
bungalows
with all comforts surrounded by a huge and beautiful green area. There
is a conference room, a boutique, cafeteria, casino, a beautiful
restaurant. Transfers and all kind of excursions organised. Same owner
as Croix du Sud and Berenty Reserve.
Double room / bungalow for 50 €, triple for 59 € and
familiar for 67 € (breakfast included)
Sunny Hotel
Phone: 92 902 14
Web: www.sunnymada.com
New hotel belonging to the
Sunny Hotel
chain in Madagascar. Large and very comfortable rooms with all
comforts: TV, fridge, telephone, Internet. There is big pool and a nice
restaurant. Not far from the airport.
Esoaka Very
popular hotely ideal for lunch.
Bazarikely Another
typical place for meet locals and tasty real gasy food.
Next to the
market, it serves tasty snacks all day around. It gets really crowded.
Bazarikely,
next to
Avenue
Gallieni. Small restaurant which serves local and international dishes,
hamburgers are excellent!
Opposite to
the hospital not far from taxi-brousse station. Popular restaurants
with
expats, it serves tasty meals (seafood, pizzas, steaks) at reasonable
prices.
Route
Nationale 13. Nice decorated bar & restaurant, with live music,
international dishes and friendly and relaxing atmosphere.
Esoaka.
This welcoming restaurants serves delicious and inexpensive meals,
specially
seafood. Good choice!
Beautiful
location by
Next to
Hôtel Gina, they have international and local food, fresh
juices and sometimes
live music. Good prices.
Bazaribe
614
Tél: 92 213 59 / 032 11 508 02
E-mail: elina.rafiringa@moov.mg
Pretty new
office with well-prepared staff. They will arrange every king of
activity or
excursion you are willing to do.
Bezaribe
Phone: 92 902 99 / 032 43 67 575
Mail: sobaf@fortnet.net
Phone: 92 211 32
Phone: 92 213 69
Phone: 92 212 68
N. G. O. Azafady
B.P. 318 Tolagnaro 614
Tel / Fax: + 261 20 92 212 65
Email: lisa@azafady.org
info@azafady.org
Web: http://www.madagascar.co.uk/
This excellent organisation is developing many regional projects to
help
local people. They do not organise trips but can provide equipment,
local
guides, transportation. Collaborating with them you are helping locals
and
improving their living standards.
You also can find further information about Azafady on our section Community tourism
N.G.O.
Andrew Lees Trust
BP 293 Libanona,
Tel: 00 2612 0 92 90240
Web: www.andrewleestrust.org
This English-based organisation
conducts environmental, educational and social projects in the southern
part of
Rue
Maréchal Foch
Phone: 92 21 286
Rue
Maréchal Foch
Phone: 92 21 218
Avenue
Flacourt
Phone: 92 211 15
Rue
Maréchal Foch
Phone: 92 21 691
The biggest market of the town
is found in
Tanambao, on the exit of the city. You can find some good gem works on
the
avenue Flacourt, at Hirjee Jewelry.
At a place called "Au Bout du Monde" you can find a wide range of
artisan products.
What to
see in the
surroundings of Fort Dauphin
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Sainte Luce
Sainte Luce also called Maniafiafy offers a wild beauty. The village is nested in the middle of filaos and coconut trees and it is bordered by a splendid beach of fine sand and a beautiful large bay where the Saint-Alexis, the first French galleon, landed in 1638. At the present time, a historical museum commemorates this event. The French built a fort there in 1643 and it was also here where Étienne de Flacourt wrote his Histoire de la Grande Isle de Madagascar in 1661. To get there, take the coastal road towards Manantenina. After passing the village of Mahatalaky, take the track on your right that will lead you directly to the ocean. The track presents some difficult passages and passes through a lush vegetation full of carnivorous plants.
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Sainte Luce Private Reserve
The Sainte Luce Private Reserve is a new privately protected area located on a peninsula near Fort Dauphin. There recently opened reserve has been founded by Brett Massoud, founder of the British and Malagasy NGO Azafady (see more infos about Azafady above on this site). Sainte Luce Private Reserve protects 26 hectares of primary forest, part of the 420 hectare coastal protected area, where various species of lemurs, chameleons and even sweet water crocodiles can be found. Visitors can explore Sainte Luce during day and night walks or with long pirogue rides through the wetlands' channels. A whole day visit including transportation (excluding gas) from Fort Dauphin costs 100 Euros. Camping is allowed for 10 Euros per night. There are also a small number of high quality tents which can be rented on the spot. Accommodation in bungalows available since 2010.
Website: http://sainteluce.moonfruit.com/
Email: dadamanga@live.com
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Lokaro Bay
This is no doubt the most popular excursion from Fort Dauphin and it is not uneasy to guess why. The site is truly amazing! The most agreeable way to reach this place is hiring a boat from Lac Lanirano, located 5 km from Fort Dauphin, on the road to Sainte-Luce. All travel agencies in Fort Dauphin will be pleased to arrange this daytrip for you. The departure time is usually 8 am. First you get on a motor boat drive until Evatra, a village of 1,500 inhabitants. Of course it would be much preferable if you would take an ordinary pirogue (this is by the way also cheaper). The magnificent lush aquatic vegetation made of pandanus and ravenala trees is best enjoyed in the traditional (and more uncomfortable) mean of transport. If you have missed the chance of exploring the Pangalanes channel, this is much like it! In Evatraha you will have to get out of the boat and walk the three kilometres to Lokaro bay, where a fantastic spectacle will await you. The aroyos lead on Lake Ambavarano and it may land near the small fishing village of Evatra. Then a journey on foot from 2 hours can be achieved by a scenic trail along the coast, the Bay of Lokaro.
Lokaro is located at approximately
40 km on
north east of Tulear. If this place is not paradise, it certainly looks
very
much like it. The stunning beautiful beaches, the breathtaking sunsets,
the
rocky islets reflecting their shadows on the shallow turquoise
waters… every
picture is a postcard. Visitors to this remote place are literally
struck by
the fabulous scenery: pristine littoral forests, rushing streams, green
hills,
inland waterways, natural swimming ponds, palm-fringed lakes. All these
stretch
from the mountains on the horizon down to the long stretches of fine
white
sand. Additionally to this, Lokaro boasts the only substantial coral
habitat in
the southeast of Madagascar and offers superb snorkelling
opportunities.
If you still could manage to
survive so much
beauty, you will get back to Evatraha, where lunch is usually served.
The
return time to Fort Dauphin is between 4pm and 7pm. But of course you
can also
stay overnight in this magic place…
Air Fort Services offers guests
several basic
bungalows at the village of Evatraha. Another option is staying at
Lavasoa’s
Eco Lodge the "Piarate Camp" directly in Lokaro.
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Fort of Portuguese
This fort is located some 10 km
to the west of
Fort Dauphin. It is the oldest building built by Europeans in
Madagascar and
offers a testimony of a Portuguese presence that dates back to 1504.
Originally
the settlement was composed of the ten survivors of a shipwreck that
sought
shelter on a small island known as "Santa Cruz". These men built a
fort to protect themselves from the aggressive natives. Despite this
measure,
all settlers were killed in 1535. In 1616, a Portuguese mission tried
to settle
on the same island of Santa Cruz, but king Tsiambany refused to give
them permission,
so that the Jesuits had to leave in 1617.
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Vinanibe Lake (Ambinanibe)
Vinanibe
Lake is located at 8 km from the city. It is an immense
lake, bordered
by a village of hospitable fishermen and smiling children. Windsurf
lovers will
enjoy their time here. Nature
lovers will love the magnificent white sand beach. The Malagasy call
this place
"Ambinanibe", which means “big pass”, since for
accessing the place,
the river Efaho, fringed by swamps and rice paddies must be crossed.
It is possible to reach
this place also on foot (about 1,30 h). Do not
forget
to climb the dunes to enjoy the beautiful panoramic view on the lake,
the
village and the surrounding mountains at sunset.
Vinanibe Lodge
This lodge, belonging to SHTM Group (Madagascar Resorts) was situated
just on the lake shore but it was closed in 2008.
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Andohahela national park
See
under Andohahela National Park
-
Mandrare valley
The
valley of Mandrare is colonized by immense sisal plantations with the
rectilinear lines as far as the eye can see. These plants are planted
for their
fibers.
-
Anony Lake
This
lake is a beautiful seaside lake with filaos lined beaches, located in
the
small town of Amboasary some 85 km West of Fort Dauphin amid the vast
sisal
plantations (1994 sapphire was found in the area, a fact that
contributed to
the definite economic drive of the town).
-
Berenty private reserve
See under Berenty Private Reserve
